Versión en español

Central Restaurante and La Huaca Pucllana are the only two Peruvian restaurants awarded by Wine Spectator.

Each year in August the U.S. magazine, Wine Spectator, announces the winners of its awards of excellence.  Wine Spectator, published since 1976, stands among the most renowned wine publications in the world.  This year the magazine celebrated the thirtieth anniversary of its Restaurant Award’s program.  The wine list awards program began in 1981 with just thirteen winners.  Today, the program has reached an international level, and this year includes 3,734 winners that represent three levels of awards in nearly sixty countries.  In order to qualify a restaurant must present a wine list with complete and correct information, which includes vintages and appellations as well as correct spelling.  The overall design of the wine list is also considered.  This year 2,827 restaurants received the Award of Excellence, the basic award level.  Restaurants receiving this award typically have a wine list with at least one hundred wines, and the list complements both the style and pricing of the menu.  Eight hundred thirty-three restaurants received the Best of Award of Excellence.  A wine list receiving this award typically has at least 400 selections and represent major producers in important regions, as well as several verticals, different vintages of the same wine by the same producer.  The most prestigious award, the Grand Award, was received by 74 restaurants.  These wine lists typically include at least 1,500 wines although the wine lists of several winners topped 5,000 wines with cellars with capacities of more than 100,000 bottles.  These wine lists offer show serious depth and breadth of selections from important regions, top producers as well as impressive verticals.  The complete list of winners can be found in the current edition of Wine Spectator (August 31, 2011), and at their website at http://www.winespectator.com/.

South American Winners Listed by Country

• Argentina
  • BISTRO M, Mendoza, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • CABAÑA LAS LILAS, Buenos Aires, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • LA BOURGOGNE, Buenos Aires, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • PUERTO CRISTAL, Buenos Aires, Best of Award of Excellence 
• Brazil
  • A FIGUEIRA RUBAIYAT, São Paulo, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • AMADEUS, São Paulo, Award of Excellence 
  • AROLA VINTETRES, São Paulo, Award of Excellence 
  • BABY BEEF RUBAIYAT, São Paulo, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • BAH RESTAURANTE, Porto Alegre, Award of Excellence 
  • DURSKI INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, Curitiba, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, Belo Horizonte, Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, Brasilia, Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, Salvador, Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, São Paulo, Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, São Paulo (Moema), Award of Excellence 
  • FOGO DE CHÃO, São Paulo (Vila Olimpia), Award of Excellence 
  • LAGUIOLE, Rio de Janeiro, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • OLIVETTO RESTAURANTE E ENOTECA, Campinas, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • RESTAURANTE VICOLO NOSTRO, São Paulo, Award of Excellence 
  • TASTE-VIN, Belo Horizonte, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • VINHERIA PERCUSSI, São Paulo, Award of Excellence 
• Chile
  • RESTAURANT SENSO, Santiago, Award of Excellence 
• Colombia
  • ASTRID Y GASTÓN, Bogotá, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • CRITERIÓN, Bogotá, Best of Award of Excellence 
  • RESTAURANTE ALLAN, Bogotá, Award of Excellence 
• Ecuador
  • ALMA COCINA, Quito, Award of Excellence 
  • ZAZU, Quito, Award of Excellence 
• Peru
  • CENTRAL RESTAURANTE, Lima, Award of Excellence 
  • LA HUACA PUCLLANA, Lima, Award of Excellence 
• Venezuela
• LE GOURMET, Caracas, Award of Excellence 

Quotes from Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards Issue (August 31, 2011)

“Wine is a good 60 percent of the reason Valentino has lasted 38 years.  Piero [as host] is important, the food is important, but the wine makes the difference.”
Piero Selvaggio, Valentino, Wine Spectator Grand Award Winner

“In 1981, sommeliers dressed in forbidding, dark uniforms.  More like guardians than guides, they struck fear into the hearts of the uninitiated.  Most restaurants let wine distributors assemble their wine lists, which were often full of closeouts and castoffs.  If you wanted just a glass, your only choice was the ‘house wine,’ often cheap and nasty.”
Harvey Steiman, Editor-at-Large, Wine Spectator

“Today, any restaurant with a serious wine program must have at least 25 or 30 [wines by-the-glass].”
Piero Selvaggio, Valentino, Wine Spectator Grand Award Winner

“Thirty years ago, updating a wine list meant sending it off to a printer every six months; if a restaurant ran out of a wine, the sommelier would have to hand-alter every copy of the book.”
Harvey Steiman, Editor-at-Large, Wine Spectator

” ‘I have no regrets,’ says Charlie Trotter, who built three additional cellars over the years to accommodate all the wine he has amassed for his famed Chicago restaurant.  ’I only wish I could buy more wine.’ “
Charlie Trotter, Charlie Trotter’s, Wine Spectator Grand Award Winner

Versión en español

Buffalo Trace Distillery

One activity I’ve always promised myself I’d do on a visit to my home state of Kentucky would be to visit one of the many distilleries located around the capital city, Frankfort.  Although there are dozens of distilleries located in the state, and quite a few located near my brother’s house, the cold and snow obliged me to visit only the ones closest, and on days that I could drive without worry.  One of the distilleries I was fortunate enough to visit was Buffalo Trace Distillery, the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States, producing whiskey since 1787.

In the eighteenth century the tiny city of Frankfort was surrounded by wilderness, covered in dense forest and inhabited by the emblematic American bison, colloquially known as buffalo.  In their daily activities the bison created trails that eventually became the area’s modern roads.  The distillery took its name from these trails created by the bison, Buffalo Trace.

Colonial Virginia

Although the history of the production of Bourbon whiskey is not well documented, we do know that pioneers began distilling whiskey in the eighteenth century, using the abundant grain of the region, corn in particular, and fabricating wooden barrels from the immense forests of American White Oak (Quercus alba).  The name Bourbon came to be associated with the spirit due to the geographic name of Bourbon County, in those times part of the large state of Virginia which included much of the eastern part of the modern state of Kentucky.  Sometime during the first half of the nineteenth century the use of sour mash was introduced.  In this process a small amount of the remains of a previous fermentation is used to initiate a new fermentation.  This sour mash introduces acidity to the fermenting liquid which inhibits the growth of bacteria and maintains a pH favorable to the growth of yeasts.  This process also gives the whiskey a characteristic flavor, and today all producers of whiskey in the United States employ this process.  In 1964 the Congress of the United States declared Bourbon whiskey a product unique to the United States, and outlawed the importation of whiskey from other countries labeled “bourbon”.

To their good fortune, Buffalo Trace Distillery was allowed to continue its operations during the time of Prohibition in the United States.  Distillation of whiskey continued uninterrupted during the years of Prohibition, 1920 – 1933, as whiskey was considered a medicinal product.  Each and every person, including children, was allowed to purchase (with a doctor’s prescription) up to three bottles of whiskey monthly.  Indeed, the distillery produced more than one million bottles during this era.  All other distilleries were required to dismantle their operations.

Kettle Still Nº 1

I arrived for the “Hard Hat” tour at 1:30 p.m.  This in-depth tour shows the functioning of the distillery as well as the processes used in the production of whiskey.  Our tour guide was Freddy, whose father and grandfather had also worked in the distillery.  After a short introduction to facts and history, our tour began outside.  Much of the equipment used in production is of such a size that one must view the outside of the building to appreciate its size.  We began with Kettle Still Nº 1, impressive for its size and capacity of 48,255 gallons (182,665 liters).  From there we walked to the grain reception area.  Freddy explained the importance of the origin and quality of the grain.  Corn is sourced only from the states of Indiana, Kentucky and Ohio.  Barley and rye are sourced from Minnesota, North Dakota and South Dakota.  Genetically-modified grains are never used:  according to Freddy they change the flavor profile of the whiskey.  The grains are required to have a water content less than 14%, and must be intact and free of contaminants.

White Limestone Cliffs of Frankfort

After reception of the grain, the first step in production is the milling of the grains.  The whole grains are milled to a size of 10/64 of an inch (4 millimeters) to assure a homogenous solution favorable to fermentation.  The milled grain is then mixed with water from the Kentucky River.  During the production season, in winter when the cold water has less microbial activity, the distillery takes 1.5 million gallons (5,700,000 liters) daily from the river.  The river water plays a key role in the whiskey’s flavor.  Because of the marble and white limestone in the surrounding soil, the water has a high phosphorous content, responsible for the sensation of sweetness so typical of Kentucky Bourbon.

Mixing the Sour (left pipe) and Sweet (right pipe) Mashes

The grains are now cooked.  First the corn, under pressure, is cooked at a temperature of 240° F (115°C) for twenty minutes.  The temperature is then lowered to 190°F (88°C) and the rye is added.  The temperature is then lowered a third time, to 64°F (18°C), and the malted barley is added.  The barley is not allowed to cook so conserving its enzymes which convert carbohydrates into fermentable sugars, which yeast in turn will convert into alcohol.  This liquid, the sweet mash, is now transferred to enormous tanks of 89,962 gallons (340,542 liters) and mixed with small quantities of sour mash.  The fermentation will last from three to five days, resulting in a liquid tasting of flat, unhopped beer.  This “beer” enters unfiltered directly into the still and emerges colorless with an alcohol content of 62.5%.  This distillate, called white dog, is transferred into new, toasted White American oak barrels, and then moved to the distillery’s own ageing houses.  Buffalo Trace Distillery at any given moment has 250 – 310 thousand barrels (of 53 gallons, 200 liters) of whiskey on hand.  In order to maintain healthy forests, the distillery plants two new trees for every one tree harvested for barrel production.

Warehouse C

Buffalo Trace Distillery maintains several warehouses for the ageing of its whiskey.  Each warehouse has several floors, and depending on its location in a warehouse each barrel will mature in a different manner.  The seasonal change of temperature is key in the maturation of the whiskey.  The high summer temperatures cause the whiskey to expand into the pores of the oak barrels.  In the cold winters of Kentucky the whiskey contracts, pulling flavor and color from the wood.  In general, the whiskey will mature two to four years in barrel, although longer in the case of other premium brands which are also created at Buffalo Trace Distillery.  At 23 years, whiskey will completely penetrate the staves of a wooden barrel.  With years of experience the experts at the distillery have identified the zones in each warehouse for the optimum ageing of whiskey.  Floors four and five of Warehouse C, and floors four through six of Warehouses I and K, always produce the best barrels of whiskey.

The contents of each barrel will be tasted by a panel of experts to determine if the whiskey conforms to the required standard of quality.  Any one of the members of the tasting panel has the right to reject any barrel for any reason.  Should this happen, the whiskey in the rejected barrel will never be used for Buffalo Trace Bourbon.  From here, the whiskeys will be blended to produce a style typical of the house.  The whiskey is chill-filtered at a temperature of 30°F (-1°C) to stabilize it.  The last step is the addition of reverse osmosis-purified water to reduce the volume of alcohol to 45%.

The Bourbons of Buffalo Trace

In addition to the emblematic whiskey of Buffalo Trace, the distillery produces several other whiskeys, and one vodka, Rain, made from organically-produced white corn sourced from a single farm in Yale, Illinois.  Among the other brands of whiskeys are Blantons and Eagle Rare, a personal favorite.  Peychaud’s bitters is also produced by Buffalo Trace Distillery, and indispensible ingredient in mixing of several important classic cocktails such as the Sazerac.

The distillery offers complimentary free tours daily except for holidays.

Buffalo Trace Distillery
113 Great Buffalo Trace
Frankfort, Kentucky 40601
USA
Telf:  +1 800 654 8471
http://www.buffalotrace.com/

Versión en español

One factor among others contributing to the success of Malbec from Mendoza is the altitude of the region.  Altitude has an important effect on temperature, and temperature in high-altitude vineyards plays an important role for two reasons.  First, in general a vineyard planted at a higher altitude will experience a lower average temperature than a vineyard planted at lower altitude.  This means a longer growing season, more time for grapes to reach optimum ripeness and more time for the grapes to develop components that will contribute aroma, color and flavor to the wine.  Second, the vines will experience a greater diurnal variation.  During the daytime the ripening grapes will increase their sugar content, which yeast will convert into alcohol.  At night the photosynthesis will cease and the vine will begin to use its carbohydrates and other organic components for its own biological processes.  At a low temperature these processes will use fewer of these components, leaving them to contribute aroma, color and flavor to the eventual wine.  In addition, low temperatures help preserve natural acids which contribute to balance and elegance in wine.

Altitude of Various Red Wine Producing Regions of the World

The second effect of altitude, particularly in the case of Malbec, is the increase in solar radiation to which the grapes are exposed.  This intense solar radiation has two important effects.  The grapes develop thicker skins, skins rich in pigment and tannin.  Particularly in the case of tannins, grapes at high altitude produce fewer monomeric tannins and more polymeric tannins, tannins which favor a structured wine which is also soft and rounded.  The second effect of solar radiation, particularly in the case of Malbec, is the development of aromas of raspberry and flowers, most notably violets.  Lovers of Malbec from Mendoza are already well familiar with these characteristics typical of wines produced at high altitude, particularly in Uco Valley.

Bodega La Azul is a small winery found in the rocky mountains of Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina.  Located in the sub-zone of Agua Amarga at 1,200 meters (3,940 feet) above sea level, the winery produces small quantities of four red wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.  The prudent use of oak showcases the fruit aspect of the wine, allowing it to reveal its elegance and terroir.

A deep plum red color.  On the nose, red and black forest fruits as well as cassis, chocolate, vanilla and hints of mature tobacco and pepper.  The wine shows well-integrated, mature and structured tannins, with a refreshing level of acidity and a pleasant and lengthy finish.

• Winery:  Bodega La Azul
• Wine:  Azul Reserve
• Vintage:  2005
• Country:  Argentina
• Appellation:  Agua Amarga, Uco Valley, Mendoza
• Type: dry red wine
• Composition: 60% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon
• Ageing:  15 months in first-use American and French oak barrels
• Alcohol:  13.8%
• Format:  750 ml
• Closure:  Natural cork
• Serving temperature:  16° – 18°C. (61° – 64°F.)
• Optimum consumption:  through 2015
• Pairing:  Roasted red meats with complex sauces; roasted game such as venison or wild boar
• Website:  http://www.bodegalaazul.com/
• In Peru imported by Bumers Group S.A.C.
• Suggested retail price:  S/. 77.90

Versión en español

While at home in Kentucky for the Christmas holidays I came across several bags and scrapbooks containing wine labels from years gone by.  I hope you enjoy them as well, and maybe they will bring back some fond memories of your own.  Cheers!

A. Regnard & Fils Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 1980s	Bernard Machard de Gramont Nuits-St-Georges Les Hauts-Pruliers	Bollinger Champagne R.D. 1969
Bouchard Père et Fils Côtes du Rhône 1977	Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos-Saint-Marc 1983	Cave du Clos de la Perrière Sancerre 1980s
Chateau de Tigné Rosé d'Anjou 1987	Château Gaillarde de la Gorce Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 1976	Château Léoville Las Cases 1974
Château Léoville Las Cases 1976	Domaine de l'Hyvernière Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur lie 1986	Domaines de Château de Beaune Le Corton 1983
Dopff & Irion Gewurztraminer 1970s	Ernest Preiss Riesling Alsace-sélect 1985	Fontaine-Gagnard Criots Bâtard-Montrachet 1980s
Georges Duboeuf Chiroubles 1980s	Georges Duboeuf Fleurie 1980s	Georges Duboeuf Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reissier 1980s
Georges Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos de la Bussière 1986	Hugel Gewurztraminer 1985	Jean Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos de Sainte Catherine 1985
Léon Chival Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Léon Chival 1969	Les Vignerons du Val d'Orbieu Marsanne Réserve St Martin 1992	Les Vignerons du Val d'Orbieu Mourvèdre Réserve St Martin 1991
Louis Latour Château Corton Grancey 1979	Michel Faraud Domaine du Cayron Gigondas 1980s	Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée des Ambassadeurs
PM Ninot Rully Premier Cru Rabourcé 1985	Taittinger Brut La Française	Trimbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 1983
Trimbach Pinot Blanc 1980s	Vignoble de la Jasse Côtes du Rhône

Versión en español

Roman Mosaic at Baños de Valdearados

Evidence of ancient viticulture in the areas surrounding Ribera del Duero was confirmed by the 1972 discovery in Baños de Valdearados of a 66 square meter (710 square foot) Roman mosaic featuring a Bacchanalian theme; however, “modern” viticulture as we know it today was likely brought to the region in the twelfth century by Benedictine monks from the Abbey of Cluny in Burgundy, France.  Viticulture continued growing in importance in the Middle Ages, and in the fifteenth century the Ordinances of Castille and Leon were established to control production and commerce in the face of foreign wines.  Vega Sicilia, the emblematic winery of the region, was established in 1864, but the region remained relatively unknown in the following one hundred years.  In 1972 the winery Pesquera was founded, and its wines began to draw attention to the region.  On 21 July 1982 the D. O. (Denomination of Origin) Ribera del Duero was established.

Bodegas Emilio Moro, located in Pesquera del Duero, owns two hundred hectares (494 acres) of vineyards principally located in the Pesquera del Duero zone, with other vineyards in the Burgos zone, Nava and Valdezate, villages in the heart of the Ribera.  From these is selected the best genetic material for new plantings, always the Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) vine, the only grape variety used in the production of their wines.

Deep ruby in color with intense violet notes.  Black fruits on the nose:  blackberry, cherry, plum.  On the nose balsamic notes, menthol, licorice and vanilla.  The tannins are mature and well-integrated, and the wine has a quite long finish.  Very modern in style.  This wine was ranked number 99 in Wine Spectator magazine’s Top 100 Wines of 2009 and was awarded 91 points.

• Winery:  Bodegas Emilio Moro
• Wine:  Emilio Moro
• Vintage:  2006
• Country:  Spain
• Appellation:  Ribera del Duero D.O.P.
• Type: dry red wine
• Composition: 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo)
• Ageing:  12 months in 50% American oak and 50% French oak barrels
• Alcohol:  14.5%
• Format:  750 ml
• Closure:  Natural cork
• Serving temperature:  16° – 18°C. (61° – 64°F.)
• Optimum consumption:  through 2016
• Pairing:  Grilled meats, lamb in particular
• Website:  http://www.emiliomoro.com/
• In Peru imported by Panuts S.A.C.
• Suggested retail price:  S/. 104.00

Versión en español

Laughing, I can still recall the reaction of my friend, a master sommelier.  Josef Mantler, owner of the winery Mantlerhof, had sent me two bottles of his Roter Veltliner wine, and when I invited my friend Master Sommelier to taste the wine, he commented in a puzzled manner, “Roter Veltliner??  What’s that?”  Most wine lovers outside of Austria would probably have the same reaction.

Immature Roter Veltliner Grapes

Indigenous to Lower Austria, Roter Veltliner is a very old variety that today is principally planted in Wagram, but is also found in small quantities in Kamptal, Kremstal, the Wachau, Weinviertel, and in the vineyards around the city of Vienna.  In 2009 there were only 193 hectares (477 acres) of Roter Veltliner recorded in all of Austria, representing a mere 0.4% of all white grape varieties planted in the country.  Roter Veltliner is one of the parents of the Austrian varieties Frühroter Veltliner, Neuburger, Rotgipfler, and Zierfandler.  Although they have similar names, Roter Veltliner is botanically unrelated to the much more important Grüner Veltliner.  Occasionally one hears of Brauner Veltliner, a natural mutation of Roter Veltliner.

Ripe Roter Veltliner Grapes

Roter Veltliner is not particularly fussy about the type of soil in which it is planted, but it does prefer warm locations like south-facing hillsides.  The vine is sensitive to frost, the grapes ripen late, and yields are inconsistent.  These characteristics have probably contributed to its 25% decline in plantings in the past ten years.  The ripe grapes contain relatively high amounts of natural acids, extracts, and sugars which contribute longevity to its wines capable of ageing eight to ten years, and in some cases even longer.  Because of the pretty rosy red color of the ripe grapes the vine is named Roter Veltliner (“rot” meaning “red” in German).  The wines are typically elegant, fruity and fragrant with notes of red fruits, almonds, earth, and minerals.  Rich on the palate the wines retain their freshness due to an elevated level of acidity.

Although there are few hectares planted to this archaic variety there are specialists who still care for their old vines.  Setzer is the winery which probably produces the most well-known Roter Veltliner wine.  Some ten years ago the winery entered into an agreement with the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra to produce their own emblematic wine, the Roter Veltliner Wiener Symphoniker.  Other wineries specializing in wines from this variety are Hagenbüchl, Leth, Mantlerhof, and Rudi Pichler.

You can find more information about Austrian wines at Austrian Wine.

Versión en español

Blue Devonian Slate and "Doppelbogen"-trained Vines

Of all the viticultural regions of the world, one in which the interaction of the land, the climate and the vine arrive to a point of perfection is the Mosel River valley of Germany.  Having an important role since Roman times, the region today is an example of careful coordination, advanced technology, and respect for tradition, all working together harmoniously in a typically German fashion.  “Flurbereinigung”, the reorganization of the land to allow easier access to the (still nearly impossible to cultivate due to the precipitous inclination) vineyards, represents a tremendous coordination between the government and the vineyard owners that took many years to complete.  Advanced technology is represented by the recognition of a potential problem (for example, a rainy season) and an appropriate reaction (green harvesting, the removal of excess leaves to encourage air flow in order to prevent the formation of mildew on the grapes).  And respect for tradition represented by the emblematic grape, Riesling, and its traditional vine-training technique, the “doppelbogen”, in which the vine spurs are trained into the shape of a heart.

The Prüm family indeed has an impressive history.  Numerous documents identify their viticultural activities in the villages of Bernkastel, Graach, Wehlen and Zeltingen beginning in the year 1156, and today still work the same sites.  Two of the region’s most famous monuments are the giant sundials in the vineyards of Wehlen and Zeltingen erected by Jodocus Prüm in 1842.  The modern-day winery was founded in 1911 by Sebastian Alois Prüm and continues among the most renowned in the Mosel Valley.

Medium gold in color although maintaining a youthful appearance.  On the nose, notes of ripe pineapple and marmalade of white peach with hints of cassis, ripe butter and menthol.  A very long and rich finish.  Enjoy this wine now while it is at its peak.  Only 150 cases produced.

• Winery:  Weingut S.A. Prüm
• Wine:  Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Fass 15 Erste Lage*
• Vintage:  2003
• Country:  Germany
• Appellation:  Bernkasteler Lay
• Type: dry white wine
• Composition: 100% Riesling
• Ageing:  in very old oak barrels of 1,000 liters
• Alcohol:  11.0%
• Format:  750 ml
• Closure:  Natural cork
• Serving temperature:  7° – 10°C. (45° – 50°F.)
• Optimum consumption:  now
• Pairing:  Thai cuisine in general; roasted baby goat; roasted baby pig
• Website:  http://www.sapruem.com/
• In Peru imported by Austro S.A.C.
• Suggested retail price:  S/. 115.00

*Erste Lage (first site) indicates a vineyard that historically has produced wines of the finest quality.  In theory the equivalent of a grand cru.

Versión en español

Mendoza Snow-Melt Irrigation

Located at 900 meters (2,953 feet) above sea level and 5 kilometers (3 miles) to the northeast of Luján de Cuyo is the Lunlunta zone.  The soil is alluvial in origin, composed of clays, stones and limestone deposited many centuries ago by the Mendoza River.  The springtime is long and the summers hot during the day and quite cool at night.  This diurnal variation permits a long period of ripening allowing the grapes to slowly develop aroma, color and flavor while maintaining a good level of acidity.  This arid zone that receives less than 200 millimeters (8 inches) of precipitation annually must rely on the snow-melt of the Andes mountains for irrigation.

From time to time we encounter a wine that makes us scratch our head and say, “huh?”.  This was my reaction when I first heard about Viña Alicia’s Nebbiolo.  Nebbiolo is the emblematic grape of the Piedmont region of Italy, responsible for the famous wines of Barbaresco and Barolo.  The grape produces wines high in alcohol, acidity and tannin.  These are wines difficult to appreciate in their youth, but with some years in the bottle become jewels that shine with notes of rose petal, strawberry, truffle and forest floor.  These examples from Piedmont typically have a ruby color in their youth that quickly changes to brick.

Viña Alicia’s San Alberto vineyard is planted with ten hectares (25 acres) of forty year-old vines brought by the Italian ancestors of the owner of the winery.  At an impressive density of 11,300 vines per hectare, the vines are forced to seek their nutrients in the depths of the soil, producing wines with a notable mineral character.  Rodrigo Arizu, winemaker at the family’s winery, believes that due to differences in climate and soil the Nebbiolo planted here produces a wine distinct from their brothers in Piedmont.  Indeed, Piedmont is known for its cool and foggy climate.  My tasting notes confirm characteristics typical of the grape, but others quite distinct.

Surprisingly deep red-purple in color.  More typical characteristics on the nose:  red cherry, cherry syrup, rose petals, tar, soy sauce and a note of umami.  High levels of alcohol and acidity typical of the grape, but with the opulence typical of the new world.

• Winery:  Viña Alicia
• Wine:  Colección de Familia Nebbiolo
• Vintage:  2005
• Country:  Argentina
• Appellation:  Lunlunta, Mendoza
• Type: dry red wine
• Composition: 100% Nebbiolo
• Ageing:  Twelve months in 50% new barrels and 50% used barrels
• Alcohol:  15.0%
• Format:  750 ml
• Closure:  Natural cork
• Serving temperature:  16° – 17°C. (61° – 63°F.)
• Optimum consumption:  through 2015
• Pairing:  Dishes with mushrooms, especially braised beef with mushrooms, and with roasted game birds.
• Website:  http://www.vinaalicia.com/

Versión en español

While at home in Kentucky for the Christmas holidays I came across several bags and scrapbooks containing wine labels from years gone by.  I have always been a fan of German wines so I wanted to share these labels of some very memorable wines.  I hope you enjoy them as well, and maybe they will bring back some fond memories of your own.  Cheers!

Bischöfliches Konvikt Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese 1975	Carl Graff Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1979	Doktor Bassermann-Jordan Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Spätlese 1976
Doktor Hans Licht Bernkastel-Cueser Cardinalsberg Auslese 1971	Doktor Hans Licht Bernkastel-Cueser Weisenstein Auslese 1975	Eitelsbacher Karthäuser Hofberger Kronenberg Riesling Spätlese 1976
Ernst Maringer Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett 1979	Forstmeister Geltz Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Beerenauslese 1975	Franz Karl Schmitt Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Auslese 1976
Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese 1979	Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Riesling Beerenauslese 1976	Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Spätlese 1976
Freiherr zu Knyphausen Erbacher Steinmorgen Ehrenfelser Spätlese 1976	Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 1979	Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Wiltinger Scharzberg Riesling QbA 1987
Hohe Domkirche Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese 1975	Joh. Jos. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1975	Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1971
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1973	Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1979	Lauerburg Berncasteler Doctor Rieseling Auslese 1983
Lauerburg Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese 1976	Matthias Görgen Wiltinger Scharzberg Riesling Auslese 1976	Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 18 1976
P. J. Valckenberg Madonna Bereich Wonnegau Beerenauslese	Peter Nicolay Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1983	Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 1986
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett 1985	Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Oberemmeler Rosenberg Auslese 1971	Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 1986
Schloss Eltz Eltviller Taubenberg Riesling Spätlese 1976	Schloss Johannisberger Spätlese Grünlack 1975	Schloss Vollrads Riesling QbA 1985 grüngold
Schloss Vollrads Spätlese 1971	St. Johannishof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 1976	Verwaltung der Staatlichen Weinbaudomänen Trierer St. Maximiner Kreuzberg Riesling Spätlese 1979

Versión en español

South Australia

South Australia.  What does this GI (Geographical Indication) mean to the majority of consumers?  Those who know the geography of the country understand that it is an enormous state, a region with a surface area of 983,482 km² (379,724 square miles).  This region sports 73,409 hectares (181,398 acres) of vineyards, 47% of the country’s total vineyards, and in 2010 produced 546,935,000 liters (144,484,933 gallons) of wine, 48% of the country’s production for that year.  Among South Australia’s production are the cheapest wines as well as the most celebrated of all, Penfolds Grange.  So, this GI is no guarantee of style, terroir, or quality.  However there are other better known GIs within the region, including Coonawarra, known for its Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the unique terra rossa soils; Barossa, known for its Shiraz; and Clare Valley, known for its dry Rieslings.  Of course one pays for the wine with pedigree.  Happily, there are exceptions, and the GSM (an acronym formed from the names of the grapes used in this wine:  Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre) The Stump Jump from d’Arenberg is one.

The winery has an interesting beginning.  Joseph Osborn, the grandfather of the founder, was a teetotaler, but in 1912 bought the first vineyards that would eventually become part of the winery’s future holdings.  For many years the company would sell its grapes to wineries in the area.  In 1928 the company’s own winery was constructed and soon began production of its own red wines and fortified wines.  In 1959 Francis d’Arenberg Osborn introduced the first d’Arenberg wines.  In the following twenty years the winery became world-renowned.  Chester d’Arenberg Osborn, the fourth generation, has been making wine since 1984.  He revived many of the old traditions of the winery including the treading of grapes by foot.

A very pretty ruby color.  On the nose there are notes of spicy red fruits:  cherry, strawberry, raspberry and plum, accented by notes of black pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, black olive and fresh herbs.  The finish is light but lingering with soft tannins.  An elegant wine.  This wine was ranked number 63 in Wine Spectator magazine’s Top 100 of 2010, and received 90 points and a “Best Value” designation.

• Winery:  d’Arenberg
• Wine:  Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre The Stump Jump*
• Vintage:  2008
• Country:  Australia
• Appellation:  South Australia GI
• Type: dry red wine
• Composition: 42% Grenache, 36% Syrah, 22% Mourvèdre
• Ageing:  Old casks of American and French oak
• Alcohol:  14.0%
• Format:  750 ml
• Closure:  Stelvin® screwcap
• Serving temperature:  15° – 16°C. (59° – 61°F.)
• Optimum consumption:  through 2013
• Pairing:  Perfect as an aperitif or with tapas.  With roasted chicken, pastas with meat sauces or a good hamburger.
• Website:  http://www.darenberg.com.au/